Wildair

If you’re into natural wines and small plates of esoteric, labor-intensive dishes you’d never attempt at home, this minimalist boutique is up your alley. Chefs Jeremiah Stone and Fabian von Hauske are masters at top neck clams in almond broth, beef tartare with cheddar and horseradish, and crunchy potatoes woven through with uni and jalapeño. The pair is also behind Contra two doors down (138 Orchard St.), a similarly themed space serving an oft-changing set menu with wine pairings.