Trattoria L'Incontro

This roomy trattoria in Astoria has a devoted following not only for chef Rocco Sacramone's delicious Italian food, which comes in gigantic portions, but because he emerges from the kitchen to bear-hug regulars. A waiter setting down a bowl of steaming pasta e fagioli before an elderly lady might brighten her day by saying, "Enjoy, babe," and then return to ask about her life and the Yankees' prospects. A savory dip of sun-dried tomato, basil and anchovies comes gratis; spread it on warm focaccia, unless you prefer soaking the bread in a pool house-brand balsamic vinegar and olive oil. The restaurant's old-school menu includes brick-oven pizza, spaghetti with meatballs, chicken parmigiana and veal with lemon and capers.