St. Anselm

Restaurateur Joe Carroll (Fette Sau) can throw up as many obstacles as he wants at St. Anselm—no reservations, no incomplete parties seated, no website, no children's menu, no substitutions—but Brooklynites will still clamor to get in as soon as the door is unlocked. This rustic, easygoing Williamsburg steakhouse carries cuts of meat you might find at  top butcher shops and grills them over an open fire. Regulars love the hanger steak with garlic butter, bourbon-brined center-cut pork chop and shoulder blade lamb chop. For salad, there's an iceberg wedge with blue cheese and warm bacon dressing. Pescatarians can opt for wine-braised octopus and grilled whole trout with lemon and garlic. Prices aren't bad at all for the quality (many dishes are under $20).