Red Paper Clip

A neon red paper clip in the window identifies this otherwise unmarked West Village restaurant. The narrow interior is just as stripped down. The open kitchen is where the magic happens courtesy of chef Kevin Chen. The “everything brioche” is a take on grilled cheese but with egg yolk in the middle; the toast strips are topped with steelhead trout, orange pearls of trout roe and dots of crème fraiche. XLB agnolotti with pork, black truffle and black vinegar is also sublime. The menu is served à la carte at the bar; tables are reserved for the tasting menu.