Odessa

Although the venerable joint offers classic Greek and Italian dishes, it actually pulls in a frugal, funky clientele for its Eastern European specialties. Potato pancakes are made with real grated potato, and the Romanian pastrami sandwich is salty, fatty and delicious. The stuffed cabbage is light and savory; pierogi and blintzes are deliciously substantial. Adding to the fun are frothy egg creams and saucy waiters.