Chez Ma Tante

Named for a hot dog stand in Montreal, Chez Ma Tante is not that sort of joint, nor is it French-Canadian. This Greenpoint bistro features an eclectic, cryptic menu—salmon gravlax, terrine, kedgeree—and whatever you order exceeds expectations. Co-chefs Aidan O’Neal and Jake Leiber are vets of Café Altro Paradiso, among other imaginative restaurants. Their steak tartare, grilled monkfish and roasted chicken are particularly delicious. Oh, and there’s a standout hot dog at brunch.