Published 12/06/2021
Jamaica, Queens, is among the most populous, diverse neighborhoods in New York City. Its multinational mix, central location and easy accessibility has attracted waves of immigrants over the years—and one of its fastest-growing groups today is the Bangladeshi community. (There are also large Bangladeshi communities in Jackson Heights and Brooklyn’s Kensington neighborhood.)
Stroll along Hillside Avenue to find examples of Bangladeshi culture. During Ekushey February (International Mother Language Day, honoring the Bangla language movement), the streets are filled with Bengalis celebrating in red and white traditional outfits. Visit during one of the many festivals, such as springtime’s Boishakhi Mela (Bengali New Year), to experience music, theater and dance. Come any time to window shop; admire jewelry, saris, lehengas and salwar kameez at Riwaz; and duck into one of the many halal markets for spices and fresh produce.
Above all, sample authentic Bangladeshi cuisine at one of the many restaurants on the strip. Read on for must-try spots and dishes.
Bangladeshi cuisine shares spices with India but also has Persian, Turkish and Arabic influences. Stop in at Ghoroa for delicious omelets at breakfast, or go later for the assortment of vajis (fried snacks), kebabs and curries, available throughout the day. Paratha, chapati and naan breads are made to order. Dinner favorites include the bihari kebab, chicken tikka masala and well-spiced lamb chops. The large seating area means you can take your time with your meal. Ghoroa has a sister location in Kensington.
Photo: Lanna Apisukh
Sagar, originally a catering business, has served Bangladeshis for occasions from weddings to family get-togethers. A classic meal here consists of their roast chicken with pulao and a shami kebab (fried patties of meat and chickpea or split pea). Sagar is also known for their many versions of biryani—a rice dish slowly cooked with proteins, vegetables and aromatic spices—including kacchi biryani and hajir biryani. Try an order of beef tehari, a favorite biryani that’s cooked with mustard oil.
Photo: Lanna Apisukh
Bangladeshi cuisine has a long history of sweets, with one of the earliest and best-known desserts being kheer—a simple preparation of milk, rice or vermicelli, sugar and cardamom. Pick up a bowl of this favorite to finish off a meal at Dhaka, which might consist of snacks such as dal puri (spiced lentil filling) and samosas (potatoes or meat in pastry shells).
Photo: Lanna Apisukh
With its extensive assortments of sweets—there are six types of jelabi (a deep-fried confection) alone—this is a perfect place to pick up your favorite. Complement whatever treats you get with doodh cha, a Bengali milk tea flavored with cardamom, ginger and other spices. At this popular spot to adda (gather and socialize), you’ll find Bangladeshis enjoying an afternoon cha and chatting with friends. There are sister locations in Jackson Heights and the Bronx.
Photo: Lanna Apisukh
Dhanshiri tantalizes diners with halal Bengali-style Chinese food. When Chinese chefs arrived in Dhaka, they improvised by making their own noodles and finding substitute spices and ingredients. The resulting recipes and cooking methods are Cantonese- and Hakka-influenced but adjusted to Bangladeshi tastes. Try the gobi Manchurian (deep-fried cauliflower), Drums of Heaven (a twist on lollipop chicken), dumplings or corn soup. Dhanshiri also offers fine-dining Indian fusion options such as salmon tikka and tandoori specialties.
Photo: Lanna Apisukh
Take a lunch break at Chang Pai, where you can find full-course meals for under $10. (Bangladesh is the only country in the South Asian region that has developed a multicourse-meal style similar to the modern French service à la russe style.) At this Bengali, Thai and Chinese restaurant, that includes soup, fried rice and choice of protein. There is an assortment of fried-rice dishes cooked to various degrees of spiciness. Choose from the pineapple or Thai basil fried rice, or get more adventurous with the Manchurian, masala or Chang Pai styles.
Photo: Lanna Apisukh
On the corner of 169th Street and Hillside is one of the few halal Thai restaurants, opened up by a Thai Muslim. Amina attracts a large Bangladeshi clientele, who come for Thai iced tea and dishes such as drunken noodles, pad Thai, chicken satay and the Indian-influenced massaman curry. You may want to make reservations; this is a popular place to celebrate milestone events.
Photo: Lanna Apisukh
This fuchka cart, which started in Jackson Heights, is a recent neighborhood addition. Fuchka (also known as gol gappa and pani puri), a popular Bangladeshi street-food snack, consists of a white pea and potato filling cooked with various spices in a semolina shell—though it’s the tamarind water that makes the dish. They are best eaten as soon as they are served.
Photo: Lanna Apisukh
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